The food… the food… Lan’s signature dish is the extremely fine “golden thread” noodles that are cut by hand into wisps of dough and take two hours start to finish to produce. It’s a coup that Shanghai scored such a high-profile Chinese chef, and maybe a testament to just how much money is here in this city. Now, for the first time, he’s out of his hometown kitchen and here with us in Shanghai, in a private villa on Julu Lu that opened quietly in April 2018 and is still finding its place in the city. After opening in Chengdu in 2011, where his minimalist renditions of Sichuan food flopped for a full year before finally finding their audience, Lan has gone on to achieve the international and national recognition. The house of chef Lan Guijun, a Sichuanese chef who has been called the “ the new emperor of Chinese gastronomy” (Fuchsia Dunlop in the Financial Times) a “ high priest of gastronomy” (Conde Nast) and “ kaiseki-like” (The New York Times). Quick Take: Extremely high-end Sichuan dining from an internationally revered Chengdu chef.
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